A MENU OF TROUBLE


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What is the size of an actual portion? On your way out, a publicist hands you a gift bag; it may contain a bottle of olive oil, a scone, a printout of promotional materials, a USB stick containing professional photographs of the dishes. It is possible, from these events, to get a snapshot of what the restaurant is doing.

Any established food writer can eat out two or three times a week like this if they want. The trouble with food culture: How the restaurant industry exploits millennial diners.

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The trouble with food culture: How style won out over substance. In the olden days, following the media dinner, guests would publish pieces about the restaurant.

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More industrious reporters would come up with a story or an interview with the chef. But over time, there was less and less reason to do this.


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Simply publicizing what the space and food looked like, without comment, suited the needs of the business and satisfied the curiosity of readers. Restaurants still invite someone from every publication, big or small. But in the last five years, the focus has shifted to influencers.

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Now they are concentrated almost entirely on Instagram, where their skill in getting people to pay attention to them, their followers, and their likes, is monetized through endorsements and product placements. In the case of restaurants, such endorsements can often be had for the price of a free meal. These days, a restaurant media dinner is predominately attended by influencers. Not long ago, I sat down with an advertising executive who said that clients are seeing diminishing returns on this form of digital shilling. However the mechanics change, the grift is still the same. There are publications and small restaurants that refuse to play the media dinner game.

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Sometimes, when you hear buzz about a new restaurant, it is truly because they are doing a great job. By Corey Mintz - Published on July 9, The trouble with food culture: How style won out over substance. In the olden days, following the media dinner, guests would publish pieces about the restaurant. More industrious reporters would come up with a story or an interview with the chef.


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But over time, there was less and less reason to do this. Simply publicizing what the space and food looked like, without comment, suited the needs of the business and satisfied the curiosity of readers. Restaurants still invite someone from every publication, big or small. But in the last five years, the focus has shifted to influencers. Now they are concentrated almost entirely on Instagram, where their skill in getting people to pay attention to them, their followers, and their likes, is monetized through endorsements and product placements.

In the case of restaurants, such endorsements can often be had for the price of a free meal. These days, a restaurant media dinner is predominately attended by influencers. Not long ago, I sat down with an advertising executive who said that clients are seeing diminishing returns on this form of digital shilling.

However the mechanics change, the grift is still the same. There are publications and small restaurants that refuse to play the media dinner game.

Sometimes, when you hear buzz about a new restaurant, it is truly because they are doing a great job. By Corey Mintz - Published on July 9, In recent years, restaurants have increasingly focused their marketing efforts on so-called influencers. Comments X. View the discussion thread. Stay up to date!


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